Cycling the Hebridean Way
A South to North exploration of the unspoiled, remote beauty of The Outer Hebrides. 185 miles, 6 causeways, 2 ferries, one unforgettable bikepacking adventure.
I deferred to the judgment of my lovely sponsors at Tiso when planning this bikepacking trip. As a photographer, I am categorically unable to “pack light”, explaining to the staff at Alpine Bikes that I would need something capable of keeping my precious cargo (two cameras, a tripod and too many lenses) safe and dry. Especially when Scottish weather becomes “challenging”, as I would be photographing the route for CalMac ferries. Following some illuminating discussion and perusing the range of kit, we decided that my best option was the Ortlieb 40l panniers. After much unpacking/repacking and disseminating of equipment, the bikes were loaded up and we caught a train out of Glasgow to Oban.
Check out the options for booking tickets for the ferries along the route at Calmac.co.uk
The Route
The journey begins in Vatersay, the island at the bottom of the chain, and travels North, finishing at the lighthouse, at the most Northerly point of the isle of Lewis, keeping prevailing winds behind you. The route is on roads, often single track which weave their way through villages and towns, and is joined up by CalMac ferries and causeways.
Build days into your itinerary to stop off an infinite number of times. We slowed to watch sunsets, and the incredible biodiversity of the Outer Hebrides make this an amazing place for spotting wildlife. White tailed sea eagles, seals, dolphins, basking sharks and many others frequent the waters along the route, so keep your eyes peeled as you pass beaches and when you are on board the CalMac ferry.
This is a point to point route meaning your journey out to the islands will be completely different to the journey home, adding another layer of excitement into the mix. The route has a good choice of campsites and more upscale offerings of accommodation along the way, depending on your budget. Recommended itineraries offer options of between 4-7 days depending on your skill level and planned mileage for each day. From the avid touring cyclists who want to experience a challenge, to the slow travel tourers who just want to pause and take it all in. The beauty of this route is that you can make it your own.
My noble steed - the bike i’ve had since childhood, top of range? It is not… but it survived!
The more time you are able to dedicate to this journey, the better. With historic monuments to explore, miles of coastline to dip tired legs in, and stunning wildlife to spot en route, this is a journey to savour, not rush. There is nothing quite like watching the sunset over sea lochs in the tiny hamlets of Harris or hearing the dawn chorus as you jump back into the saddle on a dewy morning. Build in time for a rest day or two to break off the route and take in some of the incredible heritage and culture of these islands, such as the Callanish Standing Stones or Kisimul Castle.
Logistics
There are a lot of options along the route to suit most needs, however, due to the somewhat remote nature of these islands, busy periods will require pre booking to ensure you have a place to rest each evening. The same goes for campsites, which in summer months fill up fast. The popularity of the Harris beaches, for example, mean that you shouldn’t expect to be able to turn up and pitch, or expect to be disappointed! We pitched at campsites along the route, I usually love to wild camp in Scotland, however, the joys of a hot shower after a cold day of windy and/or rainy riding are not to be underestimated! The same goes for the CalMac ferries which link up the route, these can be busy so it is always wise to book ahead to ensure travel on your planned days. Also consider the one drawback of a Scottish Summer Adventure - the dreaded midge. Unfortunately these beasts are more prevalent in the summer months. We decided to travel towards the end of September, though we still experienced periods of intense annoyance, they were definitely less prevalent than in June/July. Something to consider.
As with all touring journeys (the Hebridean Way can be trekked too) from hiking to bike packing, lighter is generally better! Minimalism is the way forward and will make your life easier on the longer mile days! If possible, it's a good idea to have a trial run, as this will help you to finesse your equipment and jettison the kitchen sink before you are committed to lugging it for several days. You will thank me as you hit the Harris hills, where you will feel every ounce of extra weight!
My 40litre Ortlieb panniers were invaluable in protecting all of my photography kit whilst experiencing every type of Scottish weather. They kept everything secure and watertight for the duration, even when we spent 6 solid hours of cycling through buffeting wind and an incessant icy downpour! Plus, their cheerful, luminous colour means motorists can spot me coming a mile off, which is always a bonus for any cyclist!
Check out these resources from Visit Outer Hebrides to keep you right whilst en route and help with planning your own Hebridean Adventure!
